Quit yer hollerin'n get on that train!

The Mississippi Delta region can rival New Orleans in good music, food and friendly vibes. Time to chug north on the Blues Highway. Who's getting on the train?

First stop: Clarksdale, MS. Clarksdale is a small town with lots of character. It's home to The Crossroads, delta blues....and tamales?

The tamales found in the South aren't steamed. They're cooked in a delicious BBQ/chili-type sauce. Each bite is just right with a drop of Louisiana Hot Sauce. You sop up the sauce with either sliced bread or some saltines.

Jerry, of Jerry's Hot Tamales. He also makes rib tips. One of the nicest gentleman you will ever meet. We had a long chat over lunch about Vegas, DC traffic, the local juke joints and the youngbloods taking over the Clarksdale blues scene. One to keep an eye on he says? Kingfish.

We stayed at the Shack Up Inn in Clarksdale, MS. It is an old cotton plantation. Once cotton started to be picked by machines, the old workers' quarters were refurbished and turned into an inn. Sit on the porch, sip a beer and watch the sun go down.

Room inside a shack. Very comfortable.

Are you lonesome tonight.........

The Inn has a stage in its main building. The night we were there, The Hollers were performing for the first (and last) time. Three musician friends who decided to play together once before the lady with the guitar moved to North Carolina.
They reminded me of another famous trio: Dolly Parton, Emmylou Harris and Linda Ronstadt. The lady on the right doubled as the front desk clerk at the Inn.

 

The first place we stopped in town was Cat Head, an art, music and curios shop that is also sort of the unofficial visitor center for Clarksdale. Go there to find out what's going on around town. By far the largest event in town each year is the Juke Joint Music Festival in April. We missed it by a couple weeks this year. Maybe next year.

 

There are also two museums in town: The Delta Blues Museum and the Rock and Blues Museum. We went to the Rock and Blues Museum.



One man's very extensive collection of blues, rockabilly, rock n roll, rhythm and blues memorabilia. Watermelon Slim and Mississippi Junebug would be proud.

 

Most people would say to go to Red's juke joint or the Ground Zero club for some blues. But on this night, the place to be was a joint named the 2000 Club, with Big A and his band performing. The one-room square had the feel of an abandoned Chinese restaurant. We had very low expectations, but once we were inside, it ended up being one of the best shows I've seen. 

 

Big A plays a mean blues guitar. And everyone in the room got in on the act. The doorman sang a few songs, including a rendition of Ben E King's Stand By Me, all while watching the door and collecting cover. The owners---Lee and his amazingly fun and funky lady---got down with the band and were grooving all night!

 



Big A and his band.

I won't forget the fun time I had in Clarksdale. Now all aboard! Next stop: Memphis, TN.