Sunday, September 13, 2015

Hanoi: Scooters and Street Food

Hello again, blogosphere!  It’s been awhile since my first last post, partly because I was on a 3-day cruise with no internet, partly because it’s been a whirlwind trip, but here I am again!  I missed you too.  :)

Some (benevolent dictator of) fun facts:  Hanoi is the capital of Vietnam, with a population of approximately 2.6 million people.  It is located in north Vietnam, on the banks of the Red River.  Hanoi is Vietnam’s second largest city, after Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon).  In September, the average day temperature in Hanoi is in the upper 80’s, with an average of approximately 14 rainy days.  (It did rain one of the two days that we were in Hanoi.)  Hanoi is a very picturesque city with many tree-lined streets.  In 2015, Hanoi ranked #4 in TripAdvisor's list of the World's Best Destinations (Travellers' Choice).  Please feel free to peruse the Hanoi Wiki entry here.

Hanoi has more street food than I have ever seen.  Hanoi also has more scooters than I’ve ever seen.  You know how you just read that there are 2,600,000 people in Hanoi?  I think there are at least 2,600,001 scooters in Hanoi. 




So obviously, what better way to experience both than together?? 

On Monday, Christine and I went on a 3-hour guided tour of the street food in Hanoi’s Old Quarter ON A SCOOTER.  Before you get too excited, we rode on the back of the scooter.  Still a ride to remember, and one I highly recommend! 

Using TripAdvisor, and corroborated by independent research (thanks, blogosphere), we used Hanoi Street Food Tours, which offers several different kinds of tours (day, night, food, sights, scooter, no scooter).  Our 3-hour scooter tour cost $45 per person, and included 9 stops and 15 different types of food.  Some light sightseeing was also thrown in.  We definitely could have skipped breakfast and we also did not need to eat dinner.  Christine and I split everything and there were still things left uneaten.  

Lily and Mia, #bestfriends, were our trusted chauffeurs guides.  Both spoke very good English. 


Lily


Mia

Mia, my guide, 22, graduated from university about three months ago with a degree in international business.  She loves dessert and singing karaoke in her free time and Bora Bora is at the top of her list of places to visit.  I’m trying to convince her to join okvietnamesecupid.  I offered to help with her profile and everything. 

I digress. What did we eat, you ask?  A Street Feast!  Behold!
*Forgive my use of the Latin alphabet rather than the Vietnamese alphabet.  #blameMicrosoft

Bun thang (Vermicelli with chicken soup) – very delicate but full of flavor, perfect on both cold winter nights and sweltering summer days.  #firsthandexperience


Nom bo (Green papaya salad) – hard to see the green papaya but it’s there!  Not at all like the Thai version; this version has a slightly sweeter dressing and came with a mix of meats, including sliced beef, beef tendon, dried beef (the triangle-shaped pieces), and dried liver.  Lily told us this was also called the “single woman’s snack,” presumably because it’s a salad, has lots of protein and is career-focused.    



Tra chanh (Iced lemon tea) – light and refreshing on this hot day.

Banh ga (Pillow cake, lower right) – deep-fried dumpling filled with minced pork, mushrooms and carrots.  Nem chua be (Crab spring roll, center) – I think this also had pork in it.  Nem chua ran (Fried “sour” roll, upper right) – made with cured “sour” pork.  Banh ran ngot (Sweet donut, upper left) – very similar to the Chinese sesame ball but made with mung bean in the middle rather than red bean.  Mia and Lily told us that these were called the “married woman’s snack,” presumably because they are the smartest of all the snacks.  I think my favorite was the nem chua be (the crab spring roll).


Hot vit lon (Fertilized duck egg) – also known as balut.  I am usually super curious about new foods but had never really had a desire to try balut.  Mia loves balut and was excited for us to try it (we had told her we were balut virgins) so she snuck off to buy a hot vit lon when the rest of us were enjoying the married woman’s snack.  It was surprisingly better than I expected.  I will be sparse with details for those that are squeamish.  The overwhelming taste was chicken-like.  #shockeriknow The yellow part tasted like a really really hard hard-boiled egg yolk.  It was also served warm (which surprised me).  I’d eat it again if I had to (for example, in order to free someone who had been kidnapped or to win Fear Factor) but I probably would not seek it out. 


Bun cha (Kebab rice noodle) – a Hanoi specialty!  This is a noodle soup made with grilled pork.  Rice noodles and Vietnamese herbs are served on the side and you add noodles and herbs to the soup a bite at a time.  Delicious!  Those sliced pieces are green papaya.  Great addition.



Banh xeo (Sizzling cake) – Vietnamese crepe, kind of like a very thin omelet, with bean sprouts and minced pork, rolled with Vietnamese herbs in rice paper.  This particular one was a bit greasy but Christine and I had another one the day after that was DELICIOUS.


Nem liu (Pork stick) – pork kebab, eaten with Vietnamese herbs and rolled in rice paper like the banh xeo.  This was quite tasty.  You roll everything up, including the stick, and then when it's all nice and tight, you just pull out the stick and the meat comes clean off.  #likemagic


Bo bia (Coconut roll) – a sweet snack consisting of shredded coconut, sugar cane, and black sesame seeds rolled in a crepe.  The sugar cane gave it some juiciness—so good!



Banh my (Sandwich) – Same as the Vietnamese sandwiches you can find in SF, except here they just call them “sandwiches.”  This one was grilled panini-style.  It had an interesting sauce, which we learned was made of mayo and ketchup.  High bread-to-insides ratio.  Maybe my least favorite thing we tried.  


Ca phe trung (Egg coffee) – Vietnamese black coffee topped with a frothy whisked egg yolk and sweetened condensed milk.  Very popular in Hanoi.  I like the concept but prefer the regular Vietnamese coffee (black coffee with sweetened condensed milk).


Sua chua hoa qua (Mixed fruit with yogurt) – this had watermelon, papaya, jackfruit, dragon fruit, lychee, coconut jelly, avocado and little coffee-flavored candies.  I'm sure I'm leaving something out. Served with a bowl of crushed ice for you to periodically stir in to keep the entire thing cool. 


The standouts for me were the bun thang (vermicelli noodle soup with chicken) and the bun cha (noodle soup with grilled pork).  #noodlesoverrice  Who’s with me?

Christine’s highlights were the bun cha and the bo bia (coconut roll).    

We didn't eat again until Thursday.

Next stop, Halong Bay! 

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